Fungus Fashion
The way we consume fashion has transformed dramatically over time. Before the Industrial Revolution, fashion was a slow and deliberate luxury. Clothing materials were sourced locally, and weaving, cutting, and sewing were crafts executed by skilled hands. Each garment was individually made and highly valued, with owners possessing just a few pieces that were mended and repurposed until the fabric itself was worn out. But with the advent of the Industrial Revolution, machines replaced the need for handcraft in production, speeding up processes and moving manufacturing from homes to factories. By the time polyester was introduced to the American public in 1951, the fashion industry had fully embraced a new model: fast, inexpensive, and increasingly unsustainable.
Today, fashion operates within a globalized, competitive economy where brands often compromise worker welfare, product quality, and environmental sustainability to drive down costs. The industry is responsible for about 3% to 10% of global human-caused carbon emissions, fueled by energy-intensive production and consumer care practices like washing and drying. Ironically, while fashion has always drawn inspiration from nature—through colors, textures, and patterns—it is now contributing heavily to environmental degradation.
The Impact of Fashion’s Materials
The materials we choose for our clothing play a huge role in fashion’s environmental impact. Synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and acrylic make up around 62% of all fibers used in the industry. These synthetics are derived from non-renewable fossil fuels, shed microplastics into waterways, and require high levels of energy and chemicals in production. Even cotton, which comprises about 24% of textiles, presents issues: growing just one cotton T-shirt requires around 2,700 liters of water and extensive pesticide use, which contaminates soil and harms ecosystems. Meanwhile, cellulose fibers like viscose and modal—often seen as more eco-friendly options—rely on chemical-intensive processes and contribute to deforestation.
A Glimpse of Hope: Innovative Materials
Fortunately, the last several years have seen a surge of innovation in sustainable materials. Consumers are demanding environmentally friendly options, and brands are slowly recognizing the need for change. From vegan leathers made of cactus and pineapple to silks derived from orange peel, new materials are pushing fashion towards a greener future. For example, AlgiKnit, a start-up creating textiles from seaweed, has garnered significant investment, even from major players like H&M Group. These emerging alternatives are giving fashion the chance to reduce its reliance on fossil fuels and animal-based materials.
Mycelium: Nature’s Gift to Fashion
One of the most exciting—and surprisingly stylish—resources poised to transform fashion is the humble mushroom, or more precisely, its underground network: mycelium. Often mistaken for a mere root system, mycelium is a complex web of fungal fibers that supports ecosystems by breaking down organic matter and circulating nutrients. Historically, the mushroom kingdom has been overlooked in the Western world, sometimes viewed as “witchy” or unappealing. But as the climate crisis grows and society seeks sustainable solutions, fungi are finally getting their due.
Mycelium-based materials are rapidly gaining popularity for their unique combination of sustainability and versatility. Able to be cultivated in days with minimal resources, mycelium can be tailored to have different textures, strengths, and thicknesses depending on its growing conditions. This flexibility has attracted brands like MycoWorks and Bolt Threads, who have pioneered mycelium-based alternatives to leather. MycoWorks’ Reishi, for instance, debuted in collaboration with Hermès, crafting a mycelium-based leather for their iconic Victoria bag. Similarly, Bolt Threads’ Mylo has been embraced by Adidas, Stella McCartney, and Lululemon, each eager to integrate this lab-grown leather alternative into their collections. Mycelium leather offers not only a sustainable substitute to traditional leather but also a production process that eliminates animal agriculture, requires minimal water, and avoids toxic chemicals.
Mycelium textiles even fit beautifully into the ethos of a circular economy. Dr. Jonathan Schilling, a MycoWorks Scientific Advisory Board member, describes how fungi “recycle themselves”: some species can actually consume remnants of other fungi of the same type. This means a mycelium garment at the end of its life might one day be “fed” back into the production cycle—a self-renewing system with profound implications for waste reduction and sustainability.
The Path Forward
Despite its promise, mycelium fashion isn’t yet perfect. Currently, mycelium-based fabrics tend to last a couple of years before losing shape, which presents a challenge for longevity. And while society’s attitudes toward fungi have softened, some consumers may still be hesitant to wear clothing made from mushrooms. But as we begin to embrace fungi’s role in fashion, it’s possible we’ll see them popping up everywhere, from clothing and accessories to home goods and furniture. The day when mushrooms are integrated into our everyday lives may be closer than we think.
Imagine a future where mycelium becomes a staple material, valued for its low environmental impact, biodegradability, and aesthetic appeal. With advancements in technology and growing consumer interest, we may soon find ourselves surrounded by fungi-derived innovations in every aspect of life. And perhaps all it will take for “fungi fashion” to truly take root is for a style icon like Kate Middleton to step out in a chic mycelium dress, sparking a new wave of sustainable style. With mycelium’s incredible adaptability, the future of fashion might just be sprouting from nature’s quietest architects—the fungi.
